
So the trip finally started! What a joy to be out on the open road again. The weather was great for traveling - overcast with the odd spot of rain and (being winter) lower temperatures. Our route took us NW from Cape Town on the N7 and then on the R27 from Vanrhynsdorp through Niewoudtville, Calvinia, Brandvlei, Kenhardt, Keimoes and Kakamas. Around 900km which is a decent haul for a day's drive. As we only left at around 10, we didn't expect to get to the backpackers much before 9pm.
I was thrilled to finally be going to the Northern Cape as this is an area I've always wanted to visit - and even better that we had nothing really planned other than the first night!
We finally found the backpackers after a couple of wrong turns - be careful of the signes - apparently they get stolen from time to time.
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| Basic accommodation |

Augrabies Falls Backpackers is run by Andrew Hockly - actually his main project now is hot air ballooning but that was a little out of our budget for this trip. He's been around the block - including running a kayaking business and various other projects over the many years that he's spent in the area. The backpackers was as expected - basic, clean rooms for R250 per night double. Its got a big area in the garden where you can build a big fire and braai, so we headed that was as soon as we arrived. Out with the guitar, beers, meat and we were soon satisfied that the holiday was really under way.
Later in the evening, a group of Germans arrived and took over the inside lounge - apparently we were all the first guests that Andrew had had in a while (such is the way of tourism in SA at present!)
Next morning we slept fairly late and breakfast took a while as the germans had taken over the (common) kitchen, but we solved the problem by bringing out our gas cooker - a great solution at the time!
I had had some discussions with Andrew who was very helpful with suggestions as to what we could do in the area. My original plan had been to camp at his place and use it as a base, but he doesn't have a designated camp site (you can camp on his grass and use the backpacker facilities). He suggested that we give Riemvasmaak a try. It was a hot spring resort with camping facilities. Riemvasmaak was about 60km from the backpackers through Kakamas along mostly dirt roads. In fact as the crow flies, the distance is far shorter, but he did not recommend that we attempt the shorter route without a 4x4.
We set off by around 12 after breakfast and packing the car. There was a good dirt road. Our first opportunity to see the sociable weaver nests up close. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sociable_Weaver)
We had seen a few on top of telephone poles etc but these were huge!

After one wrong turn (onto a farm) we got the right road which seemed well signposted to Riemvasmaak. The area is clearly used by 4x4 people, but the road was still good. After 20km or so, there was a detour and the road deteriorated. We arrived in a village and in the distance saw some tourist type buildings. They were closed, but we didn't panic. There was still lots of light and we had our camping gear. Eventually we found another road that looked hopeful and headed towards a hilly area. From a small car part at the top, we could look down into the valley. There were four or five chalets and and area that looked like the main offices.

After a steep decline, we got to the office area which was in fact a covered area next to a car park that had space for four or five tents. There was a man there who told us that we could camp and he would be back tomorrow to sort out the details. We had the whole camp site to ourselves, although apparently there were a couple of the chalets (which were a long way from the camp) occupied by a religious group. He pointed out the showers - which consisted of bamboo walls and a pipe with a plastic water bottle with holes punched in it - but suggested that we were more likely to use the hot baths which were about 100m from the camp. While there was a long drop some distance away, there were proper flush toilets as well.
Here's a bit of background on Riemvasmaak:
The history of the people of Riemvasmaak is a rich but sad one. In terms of the apartheid policies of the previous government the people of Riemvasmaak were forcefully removed in 1973/74 to Namibia and the Eastern Cape. The peaceful existence of the various groups – Xhosa, Nama and Coloured – under the leadership of a Nama chief and representatives of the various groups.
Between 1973 and the landmark date in 1994 when the transtion to a democratic government in South Africa came about, the South African Defence Force utilized Riemvasmaak as a training ground. The section known as Melkbosrand was incorporated into the Augrabies National Park. The South African National Park ran a breeding program for the Namibian black rhino on the 4000ha.
Efforts to bring the people of Riemvasmaak back to their land got momentum in 1993. The decision to give the whole 74 000ha back to the people was taken in February 1994.
As one of the first land resititution projects in the New South Africa, Riemvasmaak was registered as a Presidential Launch Project. As a result it had a very high political profile.
Most of the original residents were back on their land at the end of 1995.
About two thirds of the people of Riemvasmaak belong to the Nama culture and live at the mission station. The Xhosa grouping live at the Vredesvallei settlement on the banks of the Orange River.
In 2002 the people of Riemvasmaak get the deeds to the plots they live on – a milestone for those who were landless for so long.
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| Huge cliffs surrounding the valley |
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| The 'colder' pool but much more authentic |
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| Lauren cleans the mould off her matress |
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Riemvasmaak remains a hidden jewel in the Northern Cape. Surrounded by majestic cliffs (apparently they have the highest abseiling cliffs in South Africa) made of rich red rock which came alight as the sun set. As we relaxed that first night after setting up camp, we knew that the one night planned would not be sufficient.
The sun set slowly and the wine tasted good! This was really the start of our holiday - away from other people and camping as a family.
After a good meal, we made our way down to the warm baths. The outside air was cold but the baths were warm. We took turns to sit by the inlet. The sky was totally clear and the moon was came up at around 9pm. Life was good.

Next morning we had a slow start. Our first discovery was that we had left our gas bottle at the backpackers. Not a train smash really but its always a little more difficult to cook bacon and eggs on an open fire.

As we were getting closer to the Fish River hike, we decided to take a walk up the valley. The area was stunning as the original river had cut a deep gorge between the mountains opening out on an open area that looked as if it was once a raging torrent. In spite of the dry climate, there were little out crops of flowers and plenty of evidence of small game. All we saw were a few dassies and some bats the night before.
We had a dip in the colder pool when we go back and then after lunch Lauren and Guy joined me to walk up to the peak overlooking the campsite. It wasn't a long walk, but of course very steep and fairly late in the afternoon. From the top of the gorge there was a great view of the camp site and the surrounding area. There was also the issue of the 'special water bottle' that Lauren had to find. She had left it somewhere on the way up - but it turned out to be Guy's special bottle from his recent trip so we braved the early evening looking for it on the mountain side.
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| Lauren looking for Guy's bottle |
So came the third day and time to pack up and return to Augrabies to see the falls and the nature reserve.
Riemvasmaak is a place we would all gladly return to. There is a long hike that takes you all the way to the Orange river and if you have a 4x4 athere are lots of trails in the area to take.
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| View of the pools from the top |
We were sad to leave but looking forward to the next part of our trip - never having seen the falls before. On the return, we drove along the new road that is being prepared for the community. Apparently its going to be tarred - seems a bit of a waste of money and one wonders what how much upkeep of such a road will be necessary. After some difficulty finding an open shop (it was Sunday) in Kakamaas, we made our way to the Augrabies Falls Nature Reserve.
If you'd like to see some more of the photos from this part of the trip go
here .