Fish River and Augrabies - Augrabies and Riemvasmaak

So the trip finally started!  What a joy to be out on the open road again.  The weather was great for traveling - overcast with the odd spot of rain and (being winter) lower temperatures.  Our route took us NW from Cape Town on the N7 and then on the R27 from Vanrhynsdorp through Niewoudtville, Calvinia, Brandvlei, Kenhardt, Keimoes and Kakamas.  Around 900km which is a decent haul for a day's drive.  As we only left at around 10, we didn't expect to get to the backpackers much before 9pm.

I was thrilled to finally be going to the Northern Cape as this is an area I've always wanted to visit - and even better that we had nothing really planned other than the first night!

We finally found the backpackers after a couple of wrong turns - be careful of the signes - apparently they get stolen from time to time.

Basic accommodation

Augrabies Falls Backpackers   is run by Andrew Hockly - actually his main project now is hot air ballooning but that was a little out of our budget for this trip.  He's been around the block - including running a kayaking business and various other projects over the many years that he's spent in the area.  The backpackers was as expected - basic, clean rooms for R250 per night double.  Its got a big area in the garden where you can build a big fire and braai, so we headed that was as soon as we arrived.  Out with the guitar, beers, meat and we were soon satisfied that the holiday was really under way.

Later in the evening, a group of Germans arrived and took over the inside lounge - apparently we were all the first guests that Andrew had had in a while (such is the way of tourism in SA at present!)

Next morning we slept fairly late and breakfast took a while as the germans had taken over the (common) kitchen, but we solved the problem by bringing out our gas cooker - a great solution at the time!  

I had had some discussions with Andrew who was very helpful with suggestions as to what we could do in the area.  My original plan had been to camp at his place and use it as a base, but he doesn't have a designated camp site (you can camp on his grass and use the backpacker facilities).  He suggested that we give Riemvasmaak a try.  It was a hot spring resort with camping facilities.  Riemvasmaak was about 60km from the backpackers through Kakamas along mostly dirt roads.  In fact as the crow flies, the distance is far shorter, but he did not recommend that we attempt the shorter route without a 4x4.

We set off by around 12 after breakfast and packing the car.  There was a good dirt road.  Our first opportunity to see the sociable weaver nests up close. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sociable_Weaver)

We had seen a few on top of telephone poles etc but these were huge!


After one wrong turn (onto a farm) we got the right road which seemed well signposted to Riemvasmaak.  The area is clearly used by 4x4 people, but the road was still good.  After 20km or so, there was a detour and the road deteriorated.  We arrived in a village and in the distance saw some tourist type buildings.  They were closed, but we didn't panic.  There was still lots of light and we had our camping gear.  Eventually we found another road that looked hopeful and headed towards a hilly area.  From a small car part at the top, we could look down into the valley.   There were four or five chalets and and area that looked like the main offices.

After a steep decline, we got to the office area which was in fact a covered area next to a car park that had space for four or five tents.  There was a man there who told us that we could camp and he would be back tomorrow to sort out the details.  We had the whole camp site to ourselves, although apparently there were a couple of the chalets (which were a long way from the camp) occupied by a religious group.  He pointed out the showers -  which consisted of bamboo walls and a pipe with a plastic water bottle with holes punched in it -  but suggested that we were more likely to use the hot baths which were about 100m from the camp.  While there was a long drop some distance away, there were proper flush toilets as well.


Here's a bit of background on Riemvasmaak:

The history of the people of Riemvasmaak is a rich but sad one. In terms of the apartheid policies of the previous government the people of Riemvasmaak were forcefully removed in 1973/74 to Namibia and the Eastern Cape. The peaceful existence of the various groups – Xhosa, Nama and Coloured – under the leadership of a Nama chief and representatives of the various groups.

Between 1973 and the landmark date in 1994 when the transtion to a democratic government in South Africa came about, the South African Defence Force utilized Riemvasmaak as a training ground. The section known as Melkbosrand was incorporated into the Augrabies National Park. The South African National Park ran a breeding program for the Namibian black rhino on the 4000ha.

Efforts to bring the people of Riemvasmaak back to their land got momentum in 1993. The decision to give the whole 74 000ha back to the people was taken in February 1994.
As one of the first land resititution projects in the New South Africa, Riemvasmaak was registered as a Presidential Launch Project. As a result it had a very high political profile.
Most of the original residents were back on their land at the end of 1995.
About two thirds of the people of Riemvasmaak belong to the Nama culture and live at the mission station. The Xhosa grouping live at the Vredesvallei settlement on the banks of the Orange River.
In 2002 the people of Riemvasmaak get the deeds to the plots they live on – a milestone for those who were landless for so long.

Huge cliffs surrounding the valley

The 'colder' pool but much more authentic

Lauren cleans the mould off her matress

Riemvasmaak remains a hidden jewel in the Northern Cape.  Surrounded by majestic cliffs (apparently they have the highest abseiling cliffs in South Africa) made of rich red rock which came alight as the sun set.  As we relaxed that first night after setting up camp, we knew that the one night planned would not be sufficient.

The sun set slowly and the wine tasted good!  This was really the start of our holiday - away from other people and camping as a family.

After a good meal, we made our way down to the warm baths.  The outside air was cold but the baths were warm.  We took turns  to sit by the inlet.  The sky was totally clear and the moon was came up at around 9pm.  Life was good.

 Next morning we had a slow start.  Our first discovery was that we had left our gas bottle at the backpackers.  Not a train smash really but its always a little more difficult to cook bacon and eggs on an open fire.

As we were getting closer to the Fish River hike, we decided to take a walk up the valley.  The area was stunning as the original river had cut a deep gorge between the mountains opening out on an open area that looked as if it was once a raging torrent.  In spite of the dry climate, there were little out crops of flowers and plenty of evidence of small game.  All we saw were a few dassies and some bats the night before. 

We had a dip in the colder pool when we go back and then after lunch Lauren and Guy joined me to walk up to the peak overlooking the campsite.  It wasn't a long walk, but of course very steep and fairly late in the afternoon.  From the top of the gorge there was a great view of the camp site and the surrounding area.   There was also the issue of the 'special water bottle' that Lauren had to find.  She had left it somewhere on the way up - but it turned out to be Guy's special bottle from his recent trip so we braved the early evening looking for it on the mountain side.

Lauren looking for Guy's bottle

So came the third day and time to pack up and return to Augrabies to see the falls and the nature reserve.



Riemvasmaak is a place we would all gladly return to.  There is a long hike that takes you all the way to the Orange river and if you have a 4x4 athere are lots of trails in the area to take.

View of the pools from the top

We were sad to leave but looking forward to the next part of our trip - never having seen the falls before.  On the return, we drove along the new road that is being prepared for the community.  Apparently its going to be tarred - seems a bit of a waste of money and one wonders what how much upkeep of such a road will be necessary.  After some difficulty finding an open shop (it was Sunday) in Kakamaas, we made our way to the Augrabies Falls Nature Reserve.

If you'd like to see some more of the photos from this part of the trip go here .

Fish River and Augrabies - Contingencies and Costs

This is a less interesting post, unless you are actually planning to do the hike.  At first glance, the hike seemed like a good deal in cost terms:

• Its in Namibia which is only a few hundred Kms away
• The cost of the hike is only R250 per person for 5 nights
• We'd be camping most of the way (originally we planned to spend our first night back in Ai Ais self catering units.

Well, the hike was booked in January, so that was sorted - we were definitely going - or were we.  Some time in April, someone came to me and mentioned that Namibia had had some of the heaviest rains in years that that the Fish River hike had been closed.  Off I went to google and sure enough the reports were there:
- a group of hikers saved from an island in the middle of the Fish River
- book now for river rafting down the Fish River
- Fish River closed to hiking until further notice

By this stage I had made some inquiries about accommodation and received a response.  I phoned Namibian Tourism and sure enough the hike was closed.  Something to do with dams up river overflowing - no idea when the hike would re-open.

So until the beginning of June (we were due to walk from the 14th), everything was put on hold.

In the mean time, I linked up with two other groups who were planning to take the trip a little earlier than we were.  The big question was - even if the hike is open, will this cause problems for walking.  Incidentally, true to form, we heard nothing from Namibian Tourism to let us know of potential problems - we had to find out for ourselves.

 Next came the news that the hike would re-open on 6 June - that was cutting it pretty fine, but what could we do.  At least we had a definite plan now.  At this stage there was no turning back, we had to assume that we could go ahead.  As soon as we had confirmed that in fact the hike was open, it was time to make sure we had all that we needed to do it!  With only a week to go before leaving and with the children writing exams, it was hard to make a plan to buy things like back packs.  We managed to set a day and off we went.

We already had back packs for Fiona and Lauren so we still needed for me and Guy (R1800).  Then there were hiking shoes (R1200 - good deal!), sleeping bags (R1080 - we got the 10 deg ones insteadof the 0 degree ones!), hiking pots and pans (R379), gas stove and canisters (R400) then we each had to have a medical certificate (R1000 or so).  Of course we justified all our expenditure with ' we'll use it all again of course - and we will!' .  It all adds up!  Feeling  little shell shocked in preparation for our 'inexpensive' holiday, but at least we felt prepared - and yes, we could use a lot of this stuff in future hikes (so I keep telling myself).

The big day was finally here - or almost  - and I realized that we would be leaving on the 16th and only starting on the 21st.  Quick decision that instead of going straight there, we would first go via Augrabies Falls and then take a different route in through Namibia.  Did a bit of phoning around and got prices for camping at the falls (first considered chalets, but apart from the expense, we had our camping gear with us.  I decided to spend the first night in a youth hostel a few kms from the falls and then play it by ear from there.  We would only arrive at around 8pm and we didn't want to start setting up camp then.

Finally Fiona went off and bought all the food  - and there was lots of it.  Car got packed, housesitter  sorted.  On the morning of the 16th (only around 1 hour later than planned) we were finally on the road.

Costs

Boring but part of the deal, and these days a very important part.  After the trip, I put together a costing and found that the numbers were a little more than anticipated!  We weren't extravagant and in the end there was only one night that we didn't camp!  While it cost more than expected, it was was well worth it and I have no doubt we'd do it again given the opportunity!

Date	Item	qty	each	amount	total
16/01/11	Hiking Fees	4	250.00	1 000.00	1 000.00
10/06/11	Gas Canister	4	19.95	79.80	1 079.80
10/06/11	Gas Stove	1	299.95	299.95	1 379.75
10/06/11	Surora 200C Sleeping Bags	4	269.95	1 079.80	2 459.55
10/06/11	Traverse 75L Back Pack	1	999.95	999.95	3 459.50
10/06/11	Medicals	4	250.00	1 000.00	4 459.50
10/06/11	Karrimore Bobcat	1	699.00	699.00	5 158.50
10/06/11	Sporks	3	10.00	30.00	5 188.50
10/06/11	Pot Set	1	376.00	376.00	5 564.50
10/06/11	Coghian's Survival Bags	4	58.50	234.00	5 798.50
10/06/11	Rockies Summit Boots	4	299.95	1 199.80	6 998.30
13/06/11	Groceries	1	2 379.00	2 379.00	9 377.30
13/06/11	Camping Ai Ais	8	125.00	1 000.00	10 377.30
17/06/11	General goods	1	149.70	149.70	10 527.00
17/06/11	Augrabies Backpackers	2	250.00	500.00	11 027.00
19/06/11	Kakamas Groceries	1	375.41	375.41	11 402.41
19/06/11	Car Tax Namibia	1	220.00	220.00	11 622.41
19/06/11	Kakamas Groceries	1	28.99	28.99	11 651.40
19/06/11	Riemvasmaak Camping	1	195.00	195.00	11 846.40
19/06/11	Augrabies Falls	1	363.00	363.00	12 209.40
20/06/11	Park Fees	1	130.00	130.00	12 339.40
20/06/11	Gloves	1	22.99	22.99	12 362.39
20/06/11	Groceries	1	195.85	195.85	12 558.24
21/06/11	Transport to start of hike	1	100.00	100.00	12 658.24
21/06/11	Camping Hobas	4	100.00	400.00	13 058.24
25/06/11	Transport to Ai Ais	1	300.00	300.00	13 358.24
26/06/11	Hot Springs Pool	1	70.00	70.00	13 428.24
26/06/11	Chops, Chips etc	1	162.00	162.00	13 590.24
26/06/11	Kids Spending Money	2	100.00	200.00	13 790.24
15/06/11	Petrol Brandvlei	1	660.00	660.00	14 450.24
20/06/11	Petrol Pofadder	1	910.15	910.15	15 360.39
27/06/11	Petrol Kameskroon	1	666.32	666.32	16 026.71
12/07/11	Petrol CT	1	605.00	605.00	16 631.71
15/06/11	House sitter	1	500.00	550.00	17 181.71

Fish River and Aurgrabies - Preparation

Celia -when it was still a Forest!

The Background

Our decision to visit and walk the Fish River was made at about the same time that I decided that it was finally time to close down the Guest House and run the flatlet as a self-catering facility.
Early in January, I phoned the Namibian Wildlife Resorts on (+27) 21 422 3761 (or e-mail Lionel on LKatjitundu@nwr.com.na).  They are pretty good at responding and provide all the information you need to make bookings.  We were lucky to get a place starting on 21 June for 5 days (although this was in fact the last week of school for the kids).

Peak at Radar Station

View of Signal Hill from the Radar Station

This done, the hike was officially going to happen.  We discussed weekly walks in the Cape area culminating in a hike overnight a couple of weeks before forgetting of course about all the realities such as Fiona's Masters which had to be in some time in March, and then once completed had to be corrected before her graduation, and exam time for Lauren and Guy - not to mention Soccer and Cricket matches on either Saturday or Sunday.

The rest of this page covers the hikes that we did before we started the main hike.  If you would like to see additional pics, just link through (sometimes its worth right clicking and opening in a new tab to avoid leaving this page).

Old Generator House

Tokai Forest, Constantia

Well, even so, we did manage a few local hikes - the first one (17/1/11) to Celia Forest (now Celia hill, I guess as a lot of the forest has been cut down to make way for indigenous foliage!) and the waterfall.  This is a relatively short hike (a couple of hours) and one that we'd done before.  Next the Sentinel and the Radar Station (23/1/11 - also before Fiona was available).  A bit more challenging and on a particularly hot day.   At that stage we were still taking the dogs, but the hot day on the road to the radar station burnt Ben's pads so badly that he took weeks to recover and  sadly (for him) lost his hiking colours!

Cleared Area

Elephant's Eye

From the Eye looking out

After these, the walks diminished a little while we got use to School and all that goes with it but the walks that we did to tended to be a little more challenging.

Elephant's Eye (30/4/11) was the first one where Fiona joined us and this was lots of uphill until you finally reached what you thought was the peak but no, there was still to be some more up hill! It starts at the bottom of the Constaniaberg in Tokai forest and you walk through forests and some open areas until you get to the fire viewpoint at the top.  There is still a couple of kms to go before you reach the cave which is Elephant's Eye.  The views from there were beautiful and it made it all worth while!







The next walk was Signal Hill (9/5/11).  Both Lauren and Guy had done it before (by the light of the moon and in the day time) but I hadn't and we decided to invite Brett - Fiona's Brother's son.

Fiona, Lauren and Brett

Signal Hill was a fairly easy hike although there are a few ladders that you have to climb on the way and admittedly the first part is surprisingly steep.  Of course the views from the top are breathtaking, overlooking Table mountain on the one side, the Cape peninsula on the other and Cape Town central on a third.  It was great to finally spend a day with Brett who is here at UCT.

Team photo on Signal Hill

Hout Bay through the valley

We had planned to do another hike up the front of Table mountain and then down through Kirstenbosch but unfortunately Brett's exams made us decide to postpone this till later.  We decided that we needed to do one last longer hike before the main event which was now only a month away (with the children having exams over the next month so no more hikes).

We decided on a hike which was supposed to start at Silvermine and walk to the area above Hout Bay and then back to Silvermine.  It seemed crazy driving all that way just to walk back to Hout Bay so we started from  Hout Bay to Silvermine (22/5/11).  The first part of the hike was pretty steep but after that, we had a good opportunity to walk distance rather than just up mountains (although there were a fair number of hills involved).

Again the views starting from Hout Bay, then over the Cape Flats and then over Noordhoek were great.  After this we felt that we were now reasonably well prepared, although an overnight with packs would have helped to get an idea of what we were in for.